Paints

tchatt · Paints

Well, I finally find myself at a point in my life where I can once again sit down and actually paint. I have a few teams that are sitting around in their prime white glory that are screaming for attention. Well, I found out that Grandma Wendy paints and inks don't last for 8 years just sitting around.

I was curious as to what type of paints everyone is using now days? Valejo? Grandma Wendy? Craft paints from Wal-Mart?

I don't need to paint to a Golden Demon standard but I don't need to have them look like my 2 year old did them either, are some paints better then others?

Dark Lord

[what I use]
Not from Wal-mart (because I boycott them on principle) but I do use craft paint.
Thinned with water and a bit of dish soap for washes where needed. Never use inks.
[/what I use]

[annual paint rant]
The difference between the craft paints, and the high end "modeling paints" is all in the label, the advertising and the head of the buyer. The actual difference in formula is slim to none. There just isn't that much active stuff in acrylic paint! There's pigment, which is colored particles floating in water. There's an acrylic medium, which is a ground polymer floating in the water. All of the other stuff- formaldehyde, retardant, defoamer etc, do not affect the paint's ability to cover surfaces or flow into cracks because they are present in such small quantities. Adding more is not going to affect the quality of the paint.
Now the ratio of pigment and acrylic polymer to water directly affects the viscosity of the paint, so you can tell when a paint has less pigment in it. (Tho this is relative to the pigment which is why blue paints always seems thicker than yellows.) But in all model paint the acrylic paint is thinned to a level where water makes up a minimum of 75% of the mix. At this ratio the effects of "higher quality pigments" is completely indiscernible.

There is no special formula that gives Vallejo, Citadel or Reaper Masters "better coverage" or "easier flow" or any of the reasons I have heard for their superiority. What makes them superior is only the painters' belief that they are using a superior product and therefore they paint with more confidence...or rather I suspect that they feel like they are using an inferior product with craft paint and therefore do a sloppier job of painting.

EDIT: I almost forgot. To anyone who disputes this you may want to look into ArteDeco paints. Under "Decorative Paints" at the top of the list.
These are craft paints made by your vaunted Vallejo company. Guess what...same formula, half the price.

[/annual paint rant]

Norse

well, while DL may know the history of paint manufacture, I know what I like...

my favourite paints are coat d'arms - the consistency is good right out of the tub, the range of colours is excellent and, I guess, they were the original early 90s paints which Grandma Wendy used, so I am familiar with the range...

I have been very impressed by P3 paints which are extremely similar to coat d'arms but offer some great colours like a grey which is really dark, so perfect for highlighting black.. or an off white colour which is perfect for teeth etc..

I still use Grandma Wendy paints more than any other and while I find the variety of tubs over the years a real frustration, not to mention the very thick consistency of the paint, they are pretty user friendly and offer many varieties of colour shades...

I once used Vallejo paints. Yuk. It's lucky Boris could paint good looking nekkid chicks because his paint range is HORRIBLE.. the paints are really thin and have a glossy finish.. hard to mix properly.. just nasty IMHO...

never used craft paint, astonished to discover some people do..

just one guy's opinion of course!

Dark Lord

Thom

I use craft paints, mostly from Wally-Mart or Target. Apple Barrel & Delta Ceramcoat brands work just fine and they are affordable, come in larger (2 oz/.59 ml) containers. At $.49 for basic colors and $1.49 for the best colors I cannot imagine why ANYONE would buy expensive hobby paints. . .

But then, I am not a Golden Demon class painter and never will be. I have used Grandma Wendy paints and was never satisfied with them. The Krylon Hobby Acrylics work great but they are just too spendy and you have to deal with the Laquer/Thinner smell which can make me sick to my stomach.

So yeah, for my purposes, craft paints are perfect.

Dark Lord

Your avatar makes me want donuts.

tchatt

Thanks guys.

I may just go and grab some craft paints from that place that DL hates, but hey, I can't pass up a 10% discount. See how they do.

So DL, when you thin your paints are you really thinning them that much? 75% water? Or are you just thinning it based on experience? That was one issue I always had in the past was getting my paint to the right consistency, probably due to using Citadel paints.

Thom

Those brands of craft paints are just fine and need no thinning unless you plan to make washes.

*Drooling* "Sweet sweet donuts, oh how can life be any better!* [/drool]

Lychanthrope

I have Vallejo, but have been slowly switching to Reaper Master paints. I like thier coverage and the triad system is good for rookie/nonartist types to get going. I have heard a lot of good things about P3 paints and want to try them.

Dark Lord

Nyarlathotep

I use whatever is handy. Apple Barrel, Delta Ceramcoat, Arleene's, Vallejo, Reaper Master/Pro, Grandma Wendy...

I do recommend you take a trip down the artists section of your local Michael's or Hobby Lobby sometime though and check out the neat stuff the artist types have been hoarding for themselves. (someday I'm going to use gold foil on one of my minis...)

Dark Lord

You know I have thought of that too. I've wondered if gold foil would work better than paint on some things (shields and such). Never tried it. Worked with gold foil before tho and it can be messy and unforgiving for sure!

Does anyone use technical pens for straight lines? I have some but nearly every time I think to use them it's too late.

tchatt

Technical Pens I used throughout college (Architect) and after seeing Norse's rants about painting tartan... they would work perfect for that. Granted you'd have to use some pretty thin paint.

I remember one project I did where I drew the floor plan and elevations for my presentation on black board using white ink... my design studio teacher couldn't believe that I had the balls to do it so he gave me an A.

Yeah Apple Barrel are all over the place. Hmmm... maybe I'll check out the local gaming store and see what they carry, gives me an excuse to go there. Just moved to the area and its pretty much East Bumble F%&*. Or I could just make the trip to Grandma Wendy in Glen Burnie.

Crank Case

[i]"Technical Pens I used throughout college (Architect) and after seeing Norse's rants about painting tartan... they would work perfect for that. Granted you'd have to use some pretty thin paint."[/i]

Can anyone link to that painting tartan rant. I may want to try a tartan skirt in the near future and any advice would be appreciated.

Dark Lord

Norse

thx DL...

the problem with tartan is many fold:

1) true tartans are usually at least 3 colours or more

2) tartan is made up of overlapping "grids"

3) kilts and plaids get much wider as they go from waist to knee.. painting anything with stripes, chequers etc is more difficult if the area is not itself rectangular..

if you want some better examples of painted tartans, check out the pro-painted Trollblood range from Privateer.. while those tartans are a little more dingy and natural looking than my dwarven colour scheme, they are incredibly well executed...

http://www.privateerpress.com/HOR...ult.php?level=collection&id=4

although not truly a tartan (because it's only 2 colours) I'm also quite proud of these fellas:

Nyarlathotep

I've used Micron micro felt-tips for defining edges and dotting eyes. Much more controllable than a brush, but you have to be careful with it if you're drawing tattoos and such as it can dig into the paint and peel it back from the mini.

Thom

I have used some .05 paint markers for fine detail but they are hard to find, extremely expensive and have a poor shelf life once they have been opened. Keeping them capped doesn't seem to make them last any longer, I suspect that once the cap is removed they are degrading from that moment on. Unless you use them up quickly doing a lot of detail work they are just not worth the investment.